Dry Bread, Weak Tequila: Don Julio’s Día de los Muertos

Estimated read time 7 min read

Celebrating the richness of Mexican culture, Don Julio Tequila hosted an immersive gathering where the spirit of Mexico met the rhythm and soul of Africa. Johannesburg came alive with a vibrant afternoon pop-up blending food, music, and tequila to honour Día de los Muertos — though the spotlight quickly fell on the dry bread that left guests reaching for more than just drinks.

Rooted in centuries-old Mexican customs, Día de los Muertos is a joyful tribute to life, memory, and storytelling. In South Africa, where community and ancestry are pillars of identity, the observance finds a natural resonance. From pouring libations to sharing folktales at family tables, African traditions mirror the essence of this sacred Mexican ritual: the continuity of generations, the beauty of remembering, and the power of legacy.

A closer look at Día de los Muertos reveals its significance. The holiday is dedicated to honouring the lives of those who have passed on. Rather than mourning, it embraces death as a natural extension of life, turning remembrance into a joyful, colourful homecoming for the spirits of loved ones. Families believe that during this time — traditionally on 1 and 2 November — the souls of the departed return to visit, guided by light, scent, and memory.

At the heart of the celebration is the altar, or ofrenda, a beautifully arranged space filled with elements to welcome the spirits home. A traditional ofrenda carries deep symbolism: bright marigolds (cempasúchil) whose scent guides the ancestors; candles that illuminate their path; and a photo of the departed placed on the upper level. The altar is often adorned with papel picado, intricately cut paper banners symbolising the fragility and beauty of life.

Food is central to the ritual. Families prepare the favourite dishes of their loved ones, alongside symbolic offerings such as pan de muerto, sugar skulls, fresh fruit, and sometimes tequila, coffee, or hot chocolate. Copal incense is burned to purify the space, while water is set out to refresh the spirits after their long journey. Together, these elements create a sacred, welcoming setting where remembrance becomes celebration — a moment where past and present meet, and love for those who came before is honoured with colour, flavour, and community.

Yet, for this Don Julio celebration, the culinary experience fell short of expectations. Guests arrived expecting a feast worthy of any Mexican celebration but instead received a masterclass in disappointment. The Don Julio tequila, chilled and watered down, promised fire but delivered fizz. The Pan de Muertos looked immaculate — soft, aromatic, perfectly arranged — while charred white loaf bread and limp sub rolls languished untouched in baskets and displays, silently judging all who passed by. Only a brave few dared nibble the dry bread with a sip of tequila. And where were the tamales, mole, or tortillas? Not a single piece of fruit made an appearance. What should have been a culinary spectacle ended up a feast for the eyes only, with many guests eventually abandoning the scene to grab a proper meal at KFC and nearby restaurants. One thing was clear: when it comes to honouring the dead, Africans nail the details far better.

Leading the decks for the electrifying celebration was DBN GOGO — South Africa’s globally acclaimed DJ, producer, and cultural force. Renowned for her bold sound and passion for elevating African creativity, she captured the fearless, colourful spirit of Día de los Muertos. Her set fused amapiano, deep house, and Latin-infused rhythms, taking guests on a sonic journey that moved them physically and emotionally as they celebrated those who came before them.

“I’m thrilled to be part of the Día de los Muertos celebration with Don Julio. It is such a powerful way to honour those who paved the way for us. Music has always been my language of connection, and this moment is about celebrating life, legacy, and the energy that continues to move through us,” said DBN Gogo.

The event also welcomed a star-studded guest list, including actress Linda Mtoba, acclaimed performer Zola Nombona, amapiano hitmaker Kelvin Momo, and musician-influencer Tino Chinyani.

At the heart of the culinary experience was Pan de Muertos, the traditional sweet bread served during Día de los Muertos, symbolising the circle of life and the warmth of shared memory. For this celebration, it was reimagined by renowned pastry chef Jared Malemed, founder of La Tarte Pâtisserie. Known for his innovative French-inspired craftsmanship, Malemed created a version exclusive to the Don Julio pop-up that blended Mexican tradition with South African character: soft, aromatic, and deeply evocative.

“Working with Pan de Muertos in this context is deeply meaningful,” said Malemed. “It’s about bridging worlds — French technique, South African ingredients, and a Mexican story of remembrance. I want people to taste both legacy and joy in every bite.

In true Don Julio fashion, Día de los Muertos at Mama Ka Shaka & Friends was a celebration of craftsmanship and culture. Guests experienced bold, elevated tequila moments that seamlessly blended tradition and innovation — from bespoke cocktails inspired by Mexico’s vibrant flavours to immersive food pairings that reimagined Mexican dining through a South African lens.

“At Don Julio, we believe that celebration and heritage go hand in hand,” said Theo Zulu, Marketing Manager of Tequila & Rum South, West, and Central Africa at Diageo. “Día de los Muertos reminds us that the act of remembrance can be joyful; It’s about honouring where we come from while celebrating who we are today. In South Africa, where music, storytelling, and ancestral connection are the essence of our culture, this collaboration becomes a shared tribute to legacy, a meeting of two worlds that understand the power of community, creativity, and spirit.”

Recreate the Pan de Muertos at Home by Pastry Chef Jared Malemed

For those who’d like to bring the flavours of Día de los Muertos home, celebrated pastry chef Jared Malemed shares his exclusive recipe for Pan de Muertos  a soft, sweet bread infused with citrus and floral notes, symbolising love, memory, and the beauty of connection.

Pan de Muertos Recipe

Ingredients:

  • 2500g bread flour
  • 750g sugar
  • 625g cubed butter (2cm)
  • 50g instant yeast
  • 38g salt
  • 625g whole milk
  • 2.5g orange blossom water (zero alcohol)
  • 750g eggs
  • Zest of 3.5 oranges

Method:

  1. Add all liquids into a mixer.
  2. Add the dry ingredients and mix gently on low speed for 3 minutes.
  3. After 3 minutes, add the butter and continue mixing on low speed for another 5 minutes.
  4. Keep mixing for an additional 5 minutes at the same speed.
  5. Increase to medium speed and knead for about 12 minutes.
  6. By this point, the dough should have developed a strong gluten structure — smooth, elastic, and easy to stretch without tearing.
  7. Let the dough rest at room temperature.
  8. Punch down the dough, then chill (either freeze for 1 hour or refrigerate for 2 hours).
  9. Divide the dough into 80g portions for 100 individual pieces.
  10. Shape each portion into a tight ball and leave them to proof/rise until puffy.

For the “Little Bones” (to top the Pan de Muerto, symbolising the bones of the deceased):

  • Each bone: 10g
  • Head piece: 4g
  1. Using reserved dough, shape the “bones” and “heads.”
  2. Place them on a tray at room temperature while the breads finish rising.
  3. Once the breads are fully risen, place the bones and heads on top.

Finishing:

  1. Let the breads cool completely.
  2. Brush with melted butter and dust with sugar.

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